Petrus: A Deep Dive
Pomerol is the only major Bordeaux appellation without a formal classification — no Premiers Crus, no 1855 ranking, no St-Emilion-style hierarchy. And yet Pomerol contains Petrus, which since the late 20th century has consistently been the most expensive Bordeaux wine at first release. Petrus has 11.5 hectares of vines, no château worth photographing, and produces approximately 30,000 bottles a year. The signature is a wine almost entirely from Merlot grown on a deposit of iron-rich blue clay — the crasse de fer — that no other Pomerol estate fully owns.
The estate
Petrus has been owned since 1961 by the Moueix family, the négociant dynasty that also owns Trotanoy and several other Pomerol estates and that long managed Cheval Blanc on the St-Emilion plateau. Jean-Pierre Moueix took over after the death of Madame Loubat, who had directed the estate for the previous three decades; Jean-François Moueix and his son Edouard now run the estate.
The vineyard and soil
Petrus sits at the top of the Pomerol plateau, on a 40-metre elevation that is the appellation's highest point. The unique feature is the blue clay subsoil — a deep, dense, iron-rich clay that holds water effectively and keeps the vines hydrated through hot summers. The vineyard is 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc.
Vinification and ageing
The harvest is done in a single morning, when possible, to ensure optimum ripeness throughout. Fermentation takes place in concrete vats; the wine is aged in 50% new oak for 18 to 22 months. The estate is hand-bottled and not filtered.
The reputation
Petrus came to international prominence in the 1940s and 1950s as the favourite wine of the British Royal Family and certain old American families. By the 1980s it was selling at prices that exceeded any of the Médoc First Growths, and by the 2000s a single bottle of a top vintage routinely fetched €4,000 to €6,000 at release. The 1989 and 1990 vintages are considered Pomerol benchmarks.
Comparison with Trotanoy and Cheval Blanc
Trotanoy, Petrus's smaller and less famous neighbour also owned by Moueix, offers a comparable style at a fraction of the price. Cheval Blanc on the adjacent St-Emilion plateau (now LVMH-owned) was for much of the 20th century Bordeaux's other "right bank" superstar — a higher percentage of Cabernet Franc and a slightly more elegant profile.
Ageing potential
Top vintages of Petrus age effortlessly for 40 to 60 years. The 1947, 1961, 1982, 1989, 1990, 2000, 2005, 2010, and 2015 vintages are particular reference points. The wines are softer and richer in their first decade than the great Médocs, with classic Merlot plum-and-truffle notes that develop with bottle age.
Visiting
Petrus does not accept visitors. The estate has no formal reception facilities and no cellar door. The vineyards are visible from the public road south of the village of Pomerol; neighbouring estates such as Vieux Château Certan, La Conseillante, and L'Évangile are easier to visit and offer comparable Pomerol experience at lower prices.
Where will you go first?
Find Petrus on the interactive map. Filter to Pomerol — the plateau is small and dozens of fine estates sit within walking distance of each other. The neighbouring villages of Pomerol and Catusseau are pleasant to explore on foot.